| Repository | University of Roehampton: Whitelands College |
| Level | Item |
| Reference Number | WC/MM/1/1887 |
| Alternate Reference Number | 12.3.1 |
| Creator Name | Greenaway, Kate (1846-1902) children's book illustrator and designer |
| Title | Queens Margaret, Annie, Thyra, Jessie |
| Date | 1887 |
| Extent | 1 costume |
| Description | This dress, the oldest in the collection, was designed by John Ruskin's protogee Kate Greenaway at his request and made at the Royal College of Needlework. It was worn by queens Margaret (1887) Annie I (1888), Thyra (1890) and Jessie (1891).
‘… A gown of apple green silk, with cream cashmere tunic, embroidered with pansies, and a crown of pear-blossom’ [College Memoranda No 9, 1888, p58], the design was influenced by church vestments.
In the Victorian language of flowers the embroidery symbolises that ‘John Ruskin’s thoughts (pansies – pensees) when taken upon themselves by the women of England, will give everyone’s heart ease’.
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| Physical Description | Beige cashmere dress with decorative embroidery of pansies (for which Kate Greenaway was well known) around the yolk, cuffs and hem. The embroidery is very fine and beautifully worked. It is both machine and hand-stitched. The full-length dress has a petticoat of green regenerated cellulose which is the same fabric used for the cuffs and the gathering around the neck. The current belt is a modern replica.
The dress was conserved and restored by a specialist in 2016/7. |
| Administrative History | Ruskin did not like the dress describing it as a ‘mere robe’ which made the wearer look like ‘Madge Wildfire’. After 1891 a new robe was provided for each new queen, allowing returning queens to wear their own special robes.
The dress has been loaned for display on several occasions, most recently to Museums Sheffield's 'In the Making: Ruskin, Creativity and Craftsmanship' exhibition in 2016 and to the 'Making Mischief: Folk Costume in Britain' exhibition at Compton Verney in 2022. |
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